Here in the D.C. area, we are blessed with an abundance of bars. Well, maybe not blessed, but we sure do have a lot of them.

In the sense of four walls and booze, all bars are basically the same. But there's more to a watering hole than elixir and shelter, much more.

In this new series, we're looking at a very special category of bars - beer bars - and telling you of the very best in our area. Stealing the rating system Top Gear magazine uses to rate vehicles (it really is a great magazine), I'll be rating beer bars on a 20 point scale. I'll consider the beer, particularly the tap selection, the bar's atmosphere, bartenders and other elements, such as the presence of a beer engine, all of which make up a great beer bar.

I'm getting ahead of myself. If you think about it, you know what a beer bar is, sort of. I came across the term on the Beer Mapping Project's fantastic Web site. Beer geeks from around the world plug their favorite beer bars into the site's maps so that other beer geeks can track them down. Whenever I travel, I consult the Web site to find the breweries, beer stores and beer bars in the cities I'm visiting. It's a fantastic resource that if you're not using, you should.

Anyway, a beer bar is obviously a bar that serves beer. But a beer bar is an establishment that specializes in beer, that pays particular attention to the beer it serves. It may do other things, such as the beer bar in our inaugural profile, but there is a distinct emphasis on beer.

If you agree with my selections and ratings, great. If you don't, let me know. And if you know of a beer bar I should check out, let me know that, too.

The first beer bar in this series is the best beer bar in the D.C. area: Birreria Paradiso. Tucked into the basement of the Georgetown pizzeria, Pizzeria Paradiso, the Birreria is a destination for area beer lovers. The basement and sunnier ground-floor bar feature a regular rotation of American craft beers and imports.

And that's just the 16 taps.

I've visited the Birreria quite a few times, and on several occasions I've been surprised by what was on draft and what was hidden away. During last year's election, I came across Avery's limited release Ale To The Chief on draft in the first floor bar, complete with a hand-painted Obama tap head. There was the evening my wife and I were chatting with bar manager Greg Jasgur about how hard it is to find North Carolina beers in the D.C. area. He spun around and produced a bottle of Gaelic Ale from Asheville's Highland Brewery.

That's Asheville, North Carolina.

Local beer geeks will know the story of Greg flying to Chicago only to drive back with a moving truck full of Three Floyds. And during a recent visit, Greg (pictured) had Three Floyds' Robert the Bruce Scottish Ale on the beer engine (a magical machine, if ever there was one).

Between the regular rotation of drafts and the 200 or so bottles, 25 percent of which are rotated regularly, Greg runs a quality beer bar. Does it hurt that he doesn't stock any beers from the big three American imports (Anheuser-Busch, Coors and Miller)? No, it doesn't hurt at all. Sorry Bud lovers, but anyone willing to eschew the bounty and revenue that comes with keeping the big three on hand is taking a chance to do something right.

And while owner Ruth Gresser gives Greg the reigns on stocking beers, Greg is willing to turn some of the decision making over to his customers. Got an idea for a beer that the Birreria doesn't offer? Let Greg know, he might just have it the next time you come in.

So, will the best beer bar in D.C. score a perfect 20? I'm afraid not. As much as I like the Birreria, it is a pizzeria first and a bar second. You could argue that that means there is always great food available to go with your Double Dead Guy. That's true, but that also means that you're sharing the bar with the Johnson family who brought the kids for pizza. As wonderful as I'm sure the Johnsons are, they take me out of the moment. When I'm in a bar, I want to be in a bar, not a family restaurant.

Despite the fact that Pizzeria Paradiso caters to diners and beer lovers equally, I have come across the occasional server and bartender who didn't know much about the beer. Fortunately, the beer menu does a decent job describing the styles and characteristics of the beers, but to be great, all the bartenders should be well versed in the beers on draft and familiar with the bottles on hand. The servers should at least be familiar with what's available.

Finally, and this is a minor quibble, but there could be a better focus on local beers. One of the things I appreciate about the bars in the Triangle area of North Carolina is the fact that it's not uncommon to find local beers on tap, often two or three. Locals drink local beer, so local bars kept them on draft. I understand that D.C. is a city of transients, but that's no reason a few of the quality beer bars, like the Birreria, can't dedicate a few draft lines to the likes of Hook & Ladder and Flying Dog.

Still, Birreria Paradiso is a damn fine beer bar. If you haven't wandered downstairs to pay Greg a visit, you're missing out. He's running a fine establishment with consistently the best selection of quality craft beers and imports you're going to find in the area.

Score: 17 of 20 (beer selection: 7 of 8, atmosphere: 4 of 5, bartenders: 4 of 5, other elements: 2 of 2)

Heard around the DC Foodies blogosphere this week...by now, most of you know that Teddy Folkman will not be The Next Food Network Star. That’s ok, you can still enjoy his cooking at The Capital Lounge. Now, we have more area chefs to root for in another reality TV cooking show - Top Chef Las Vegas. Bryan Voltaggio of Volt in Frederick, MD, will be joining the TC cast for season 6, which premieres August 26th. Mike Isabella from Zaytinya will also be representing DC, and Jesse Sandlin (Abercrombie Fine Foods) will be hailing from Baltimore, MD. Adding heat to the competition will be Votaggio’s brother, Michael, who is Chef de Cuisine at The Bazaar by Jose Andres in Los Angeles.

Okay, so is it cliche for a skinny white dude to have a thing for Asians? I try not to be tacky or predictable, but apparently I can't stay away. A few weeks ago, I went on about this exotic Chinese find, that I admit was a bit of a disappointment. But did that deter me? Of course not! This week, amidst my usual degenerate trolling for whatever is tasty and cheap, I wandered into one of my usual haunts on Wisconsin Ave. Expecting to pick up my usual fare of lithe Italian, or maybe a quick French pink, my eye lights upon, of all things, a Japanese Koshu! Though a little bit older than I usually care for, the chance at a Japanese wine (what did you think I was talking about?) was one I couldn't miss.

You don't see these ones stateside very often, folks; I've been looking for years. But believe it or not, Japan actually has a sizable wine trade, consisting of over 175 wineries, operating in almost 90% of the country's prefectures. Though small compared to many western wine industries, Japan meets more than a third of her wine demand domestically. As such, very little is exported, so I was shocked to see this one at Wide World of Wines, relegated to a bargain bin at $5.99, one quarter its original price. Upon asking the owner, I learned that this was a direct import ('DI' in the biz), so you won't find it anywhere else. When I asked, very bluntly, if it was still potable (it is a 2004, and five years is a bit long in the tooth for even your finer white wines), I was informed that it "...should be." Though not a ringing endorsement, this seemed good enough for a $6 gamble.

This particular bottle was made by Grace Winery, which the back label informs me was founded in 1923 in the region of Katsunuma, near Mount Fuji. Katsunuma is Japan's most important wine region -- according to legend, the grape vine was first planted here by a follower of the Buddha Nyorai in the Eighth Century, and the area still and industry leader. The golden boy of Japanese viticulture is the Koshu grape, a vitis vinifera (i.e., European varietal) brought over and gone native some 1,200 years ago. I don't know much about Koshu, or Japanese wine in general, so I checked out Grace's English language website. "With the belief that the aroma of climate is a reflection of the human work to nature," I was assured, "we want to be one for Japanese winemaker to occupy certain place among well-known world bland." Fair enough!

The Grace Koshu pours an almost colorless lemon yellow, telegraphing its generally light character. The nose is amazingly youthful given the wine's age, offering up subtle notes of white flowers, citrus, and a vaguely milky note. On the palate the wine is very light, but has a forceful lemon-accented palate, and a short, dry finish. Typical of cold climate, lighter whites, this wine would pair well with lighter salads or white fish, or make an excellent quaff for someone who likes his wines dry and lemony.

Though obviously not mainstream in either flavor or origin, this wine was quite pleasant, and a good bet for any Japanophile or wine lover looking to surprise his friends. Wide World of Wines only seemed to have a few bottles left, so if you count yourself in either of these camps, go soon!

As part of an ongoing effort to alert you, the readers of DC Foodies, to all of the really cool food-related events, classes and opportunities throughout the Washington Metropolitan area, we give you this week's edition of the Foodie To-Do List.

Each Wednesday, we give you a heads-up on a few of the upcoming events that we think look particularly interesting.  This week, we've got:

Free Honey Cups for Kids from Buzz Bakery to Celebrate National Don't Step on a Bee Day:

What:
Seriously, Friday is National Don't Step on a Bee Day.  So it makes perfect sense to celebrate with the folks at Buzz Bakery.  To continue the theme, enjoy sweet treats like their classic Bumble Bee cupcakes, wildflower honey ice cream, Beehive sugar cookies and honey panna cotta with berries.  A limited number of honey-iced "Honey Cups" will be free for kids on a first-come, first-served basis.

When:
Friday, July 10th, 6 AM - Midnight

Where:
Buzz Bakery
901 Slaters Ln
Alexandria, VA

Why:
Buzz uses the 'holiday' to draw attention to the very real issue of Colony Collapse Disorder, an affliction that is wiping out beehives across the country.  It's a sweet reminder that beekeepers - and a pretty large portion of our nation's food supply - are in trouble if we can't figure out a way to combat CCD.

Cost: 
Honey cups are free to kids while supplies last.  Bumble Bee cupcakes are $2.75, wildflower honey ice cream is $2.25 per scoop, Bee Hive sugar cookies are $2.25 and the honey panna cotta is $3.95.


Inaugural Oyster Roast at Black's Bar & Kitchen in Bethesda:

What: 
If you've never been to an oyster roast, you're in for a treat.  Black's will be serving up their usual variety of oysters in an array of different presentations.  Try them raw, cornmeal-fried, grilled, bacon-wrapped and even pickled!  Oyster stew and oysters Rockefeller are also on the menu for this all-you-care-to-eat feast.  Wine pairings will also be available, but the shellfish are the real focus of the event.
When: 
Saturday, July 11th, noon to 4 PM
 
Where: 
Black's Bar & Kitchen
7750 Woodmont Ave.
Bethesda, MD
 
Why: 
Oyster roasts are a big-time coastal tradition in the Chesapeake region and down to South Carolina.  For more details on the tradition (which usually occurs in those colder months ending in "r"), check out some of Metrocurean's writings on her own experiences with oyster roasts.  Why this one?  Think of it as a warm-up for Old Ebbitt's Oyster Fest with better prices and more cooking styles.

Cost: $45 per person.  Call (301) 652-5525 for more information and to make your reservation for this weekend.

Spice Squared - Modern Spice and Spice Xing Team Up for a Crab Dinner and Book Signing:

What:
Pomegranate Delight.  Crab Tikki.  Pollachi Crab Masala.  Crab Gassi Mangalorean.  We're talking about some seriously delicious tastes of India that make use of our local blue crab.  Monica Bhide will be talking about and signing Modern Spice, her new book that Padma Lakshmi just described as one of the "Best Books Ever."  Combine the food with the company, and you're looking at a seriously spicy Sunday.

When:
Sunday, July 12th, starting at 5 PM with cocktails

Where:
Spice Xing
100-B Gibbs Street
Rockville, MD

Why: 
Monica Bhide is a very talented local writer whose new book is a great introduction to Indian cuisine for anyone from the accomplished chef to the ambitious novice.  At this meal, you'll get to hear her talk about the book and its contents while sampling some delicious crab dishes prepared by Chef Sudhir Seth.

Cost:
$60 per person (tax and tip included) gets you the meal and a copy of Modern Spice for Monica to sign.  Tickets are also available without the book for $45 per person.  Please bring cash, as the prospect of running dozens of credit cards at the end of the meal is a bit daunting.

Sign up through this Don Rockwell thread or call Spice Xing by 5 PM tomorrow (the cutoff time for the chef to order the crab for the meal).  They have room for 60 and almost 40 responses already!

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If you would like your events posted here, please email help@dcfoodies.com with the event info.

When two American icons meet, there is much joy.

There is also much prep work.

America might be the land of cheese burgers and apple pie, but if we were honest, we'd admit that our true culinary love is pizza. There's just something about tomato sauce, baked dough and cheese that makes us happy.

So it was only a matter of time before I got around to writing about grilled pizza. That time came a couple weeks ago in the form of an e-mail that said: "Hey, when are you going to write about pizza on the grill?"

The e-mail was from Jason Storch, the guy behind this little Web site. Admittedly, I'd been considering a grilled pizza post for a while. My friend Eldora makes great pizzas on the grill, many of which I've devoured greedily. But the idea of whipping up dough bothered me. I'm not a very good baker. It's too precise, too unforgiving. I like a little room for adjustment should I work myself into a corner.

You screw up something on the grill or the stove and you can probably fix it. You screw something up in the oven and you're starting over.

Well, I'm here to say that my fear of baking was unfounded, at least as it applies to pizza dough. Relying on a grilled pizza dough recipe Steven Raichlen included in his BARBECUE! Bible cookbook (which I doubled), I was able to produce six reasonably good pies. And with a little more practice, I'll be the Papa Effing John of the grill.

There are three things to know about grilling pizzas: few things are more bad ass than pulling hot pies off a Weber, never use more than three toppings, and prepare everything ahead of time. Everything. The actual act of grilling pizzas is very fast and very easy. It took me all of about five minutes per pie. Preparing to grill a few pizzas, however, took me two days.

I will say that grilling pizza can be as easy or as complicated as you like. If you're like me and seem to enjoy doing everything the hard way, you'll make the pizza dough, you'll make the sauce, you'll plan on making "unique" pizzas, you'll make three different "unique" pizzas, etc. etc. If you're sane, you'll make the dough and buy some jarred pizza sauce, pepperoni and decent cheese. The route you take is up to you.

And let's face it, when you pull a couple hot pies off the grill, no one will care about your homemade sauce or the thought you put into the toppings. Why should they, you just produced an American icon from a grill that's usually relegated to cooking chicken breasts?

You, my friend, have just done something bordering on magical.

To celebrate my accomplishment, I cracked open a couple Gordon beers from Oscar Blues. Gordon is a big, bad double IPA. It's hoppy, boozy and in a can. For anyone who hasn't joined the canned beer movement, now's the time (Hell, even Esquire and the Post are on board). The enemy of beer is light. It converts some of the hop chemicals into 3-methylbut-2-ene-1-thiol, which creates that skunky flavor that ruins beer. That's why so many beers come in dark brown bottles. Although brown glass isn't terrible at filtering light, aluminum is better. And those old fears that the aluminum affects the flavor of the beer can be put to rest. Modern cans, such as the ones used by Oscar Blues, include a liner that protects the beverage from its container. 

Oscar Blues was one of the first craft brewers to use only cans in their production, but other brewers are beginning to follow.

Grilled pizza three ways
(Makes four servings)

For the pizza dough
Rather than plagiarize the great grill master, I will simply say that a Google search of "Steven Raichlen grilling pizza" will produce his dough recipe and a video demonstration by the man himself. That said, if you don't own a copy of his BARBECUE! Bible and consider yourself a grilling enthusiast, you are missing out on a valuable resource of techniques and recipes.

For the sauce
1 16 oz. can of San Marzano tomatoes, crushed
1 tbs. of basil, dried or fresh chopped finely
1 tbs. of oregano, dried or fresh chopped finely
1 tbs. of thyme, dried or fresh chopped finely
2 tsp. of sugar
6 heads of garlic, minced very finely
Salt and cracked black pepper to taste

For the Sopressata pizza
1/4 lb. of thinly sliced Sopressata
6 oz. of sharp cheddar cheese (I used aged English cheddar, but buy what you like), shredded

For the breakfast pizza
2 strips of bacon, diced
1 egg
2 tsp. of chives, diced
6 oz. of gruyere cheese (or Swiss), shredded

For the lamb and goat cheese pizza
1/2 lb. of ground lamb
6 oz. of goat's cheese, divided into four disks
2 tsp. of mint, dried or fresh chopped finely
2 tsp. of thyme
2 tsp. of salt
2 tsp. of cracked black pepper
1 yellow bell pepper, roasted and sliced very thin

Prepare the sauce the day before. Although it can be whipped up in a few minutes, a couple hours on the stove deepens the flavor. Combine the ingredients, bring to a boil, taste, and add salt and pepper. Cover and cook at low heat for an hour. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Cover and cook for another hour. Taste again. If you're happy with the flavor, let the sauce simmer for another 30 minutes with the lid partially off so some of the steam can escape, allowing the sauce to thicken. Stir, taste one final time and if the sauce is still a bit soupy, simmer on low heat for another 15 minutes. Once the sauce is done, stick it in the refrigerator until you need it.

If you're planning to make the Sopressata pie, the only thing you need to do is shred the cheese, get the Sopressata out of its package, and warm up the pizza sauce on the stove or in a microwave.

When you're ready to grill, drizzle some olive oil onto a baking sheet and spread the pizza dough out on it, making sure to coat both sides of the dough. When the dough is spread out (it'll look a little like a Rorschach test) and the toppings are next to the grill, toss the pie on to the hottest part of the grill. After a minute, check to see that the bottom is baking by feeling (with a spatula) for firmness and looking for grill marks. At about a minute and a half, you should be able to flip it over. Add the cheese (adding it to the hot dough ensures that it melts) and close the lid. After about a minute, check the underside for doneness and slide the pizza to a cooler part of the grill. Add the sauce and the Sopressata, and close the lid for another 2 minutes. Remove the lid, remove the pizza.

If you're making the breakfast pizza, you need to shred the cheese, fry the diced bacon and crack the egg into an egg cup or bowl ahead of time. As with the Sopressata pizza, make sure you reheat the sauce before you begin.

When you're ready to grill, drizzle some olive oil onto a baking sheet and spread the pizza dough out on it, making sure to coat both sides of the dough. When the dough is spread out and the toppings are next to the grill, toss the pie on to the hottest part of the grill. After a minute, check to see that the bottom is baking by feeling (with a spatula) for firmness and looking for grill marks. At about a minute and a half, you should be able to flip it over. Add the cheese (adding it to the hot dough ensures that it melts) and close the lid. After about a minute, check the underside for doneness and slide the pizza to a cooler part of the grill. Add the sauce and bacon, and close the lid for another minute. Using a spoon create a small well in the middle of the pizza for the egg yolk to rest in, and if you own a brulee torch get it out. With the torch at the ready in one hand and the egg cup in the other, carefully lay the egg into the well. As the white begins to run for the edges, hit them with the torch, they'll cook immediately (if you don't own a torch, I wish you luck). Close the lid and allow the pizza to cook for another three minutes or until the egg white is cooked. Remove the lid, remove the pizza.

And if you're planning to make the lamb and goat cheese pizza, do as I say not as I do. For this post, I decided to make a few startlingly big lamb meat balls. They're impressive to look at and they remind me of the first meatball pizza I had years ago, which had nothing more than cheese, sauce and a gigantic meatball in the center. Well, I'm here to tell you that the giant meatball works better on paper than in practice. So enjoy the picture, but brown your lamb meat off in a pan or make several bite-size meatballs.

To get started, brown the lamb with the mint, thyme, salt and pepper, or combine those ingredients and form them into tiny meatballs (really folks, trust me). If you're making meatballs, preheat your over to 350 degrees. Brown a couple sides of the meatballs and then stick the pan into the oven for 15 minutes. For the bell pepper, toss it on a gas grill whole for 15 minutes, or until a char forms on the skin. Remove from the heat and place in a bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. After 10 minutes, the heat from the pepper will have steamed it enough that you can easily remove most of the charred skin. Now, cut the pepper into long, thin slices. (If you don't have a gas grill, cut the pepper into long, thin slices and sauté over medium heat for about 10 minutes.)

When you're ready to grill, drizzle some olive oil onto a baking sheet and spread the pizza dough out on it, making sure to coat both sides of the dough. When the dough is spread out and the toppings are next to the grill, toss the pie on to the hottest part of the grill. After a minute, check to see that the bottom is baking by feeling (with a spatula) for firmness and looking for grill marks. At about a minute and a half, you should be able to flip it over. Add the sauce and close the lid. After about a minute, check the underside for doneness and slide the pizza to a cooler part of the grill. Add the goat cheese and lamb, and close the lid for another 2 minutes. Remove the lid, remove the pizza.

Recently, the Post ran a pretty solid article on how to stock a kitchen with only 20 essentials tools and utensils.  I’d add one more:  Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything: 2,000 Simple Recipes for Great Food.  “Big Red”, as I now refer to it, has become the go-to guide in my kitchen, and even though I'm pretty comfortable with a chef's knife, when I think back to a time when I wasn't, How to Cook Everything would have shoved Joy of Cooking off the shelf.

Bittman's unpretentious style infuses every part of this book, from what appliances to buy to the actual recipes.  He is exceedingly accessible, especially to beginners or people who like to cook but who don't see themselves making gougères anytime soon (but if so, the recipe is on page 99).  He doesn't believe one needs an award-winning kitchen stocked with the most and best tools and appliances, and he offers his own kitchen as proof:  "7 feet long and 6 feet wide...it has a moderate-size refrigerator, what was once considered a full-size stove (as opposed to the compact “apartment-size” stove or the monsters recently gaining popularity), annoyingly little counter and storage space (yes, I sometimes must remove the stored pots and pans before using the oven) and even a small dishwasher."

That's more my style...and, I suspect, the style of most people.

How to Cook Everything is a well-organized walk through every course and food group you might reasonably encounter in a modern market -- super or farmer's.  Recipes begin with building-block essentials, which are easy and/or popular and provide the basis for variations.  Each recipe is also identified as fast (less than 30 minutes), make-ahead (and store for finishing or serving later) and/or vegetarian (600 of the 2000 recipes are vegetarian).

Throughout the recipe sections, Bittman provides basic information about the main ingredient:  types, variations, cooking methods.  For example, the section on beans begins with the basics of buying, storing, preparing and cooking and continues with a 3-page chart on types, varieties and cooking times before launching into 37 pages of recipes, interspersed with sidebars on achieving certain textures of cooked beans, bean/green/pasta combos, edamame, lentils, etc.  There is little you won't know about beans when you're done.

However, not everyone needs voluminous information on beans (or grains or spices or apples).  If you only need to refresh yourself on a technique rather than a recipe, check out the extensive index and look up either the technique or the technique and the food you want to prepare.  I recently grilled a whole chicken and just needed to know whether I started it bone- or breast-side down; less than a minute later, I had my answer (bone-side first).  When are steaks done?  How can I jazz up plain rice in less than 30 seconds?  Which potatoes are good for salads?  How do I squeeze tofu?  You ask, Bittman answers.

His presentation technique is to provide a basic recipe and follow it with all kinds of variations for modifying it.  Want to make that pound cake low fat?  Replace 1 stick of butter with a cup of low-fat yogurt.  Wondering how you're going to use all that black bean puree you made?  Spread it on crostini, use it as a dip for vegetables or place it under a grilled main course.

It’s utterly impossible to be intimidated by a chef who recommends putting leftover Crème Anglaise on Cheerios.

In his typically friendly and low-key manner, he offers subtle suggestions, followed by his catchphrase, "...if you like."  The recipes can be followed to the letter but really are intended as starting points; Bittman encourages cooks to experiment with the basics that he provides.  Indeed, it's how one learns to cook.

While this is a basic cookbook, the volume of information launches it past that category into, dare I say, The Only Cookbook You'll Ever Need territory.  I was even surprised to find grilled chapati in the index, which immediately brought back memories of Tanzania, where the tortilla-like discs of fried dough wrapped in greasy newspapers are a cheap roadside staple.  Adzuki beans to yuzu sorbet, bulgur to zucchini:  it's in there.

But for me, the moment that defined Big Red's Number One spot in our kitchen was when I walked in one morning to find it open on the counter.  Neil, my boyfriend, was facing the stove but craning his neck towards the buckwheat pancake recipe.  For someone who eschews -- no, disdains -- recipes as much as Neil does, this was no small honor to Bittman.

You can catch Mark Bittman over at the NY Times, where he writes "The Minimalist" column and his Bitten blog.  Every so often, the online NYT posts a short video with Bittman preparing a recipe in 5 minutes or less; the amount of information you come away with far exceeds the time spent watching.  In fact, no one in recent memory has brought great cooking within the reach of everyone as well as Bittman has.

So any of us who have ever known someone who's thrown a wedding can probably agree that they are pretty damned stressful. A wedding may be made even MORE stressful if, five days before the main event, the bride and groom are informed that the venue is not yet complete, and that they will have to move the whole affair nearly 70 miles away. This is just what happened to my friends Jill and Evan (congratulations guys!) on their special day, and I was amongst the surprised attendees. Instead of the travel-friendly city of Long Beach (a mere stone's throw from Queens), the nuptials were to occur in Westhampton, playground of the wealthy, at the base of Long Island's South Fork.

I don't mean to sound as if I am complaining; the service was beautiful, and the reception must have been a blast, as I can hardly remember it. Also, the impromptu move also had two unforeseen benefits, as far as my party and I were concerned: 1) We had to take a ferry from Connecticut, which was fantastic, as boats are universally awesome, and 2) We found ourselves passing through Long Island wine country, which spans a good portion of the island's North Fork.

Like Virginia, Long Island has an extensive collection of vineyards to call its own, with some 40 of them in residence on the eastern peninsulas. While lacking the prestige of their Cali counterparts, LI wineries have an immense amount of funding (go figure, given the locals), and are therefor as numerous and grand as Napa's finest. Like the aforementioned county, LI has a main wine drag, Route 25, bragging of some 30 wineries in less than 15 miles. I wish we'd had more time, but a six hour's drive and pending matrimonial obligations kept us to one, so we sought out Pindar Winery (one of the few I knew, thanks to local distribution), a 500 acre founded in the 1980's in the town of Peconic.

We pulled up to Pindar's wide white tasting room at about two o'clock, and parked in one of a handful of unoccupied spaces. Inside, we found three large, rectangular tasting islands absolutely packed with people. We managed to squeeze our way into a vacant section of table, and eventually got the attention of one of the rather harried bartenders. Pindar offers a selection of some 20 wines, of which one may sample five for five dollars. The three of us made different selections and shared, so we managed to sample a healthy number of them.

Because of the cooler climate and relative youth of the industry, Long Island wines bear a certain resemblance to Virginia wines, being earthy and a bit green, and quite often slightly sweet. Where VA focuses on Viognier, LI grows a good amount of Chardonnay, of which Pindar offered two. While the Sunflower Reserve 2008 was a bit oaky for my taste, the 2007 Peacock label was very crisp and satisfying, and we picked up a bottle for a reasonable $10.99. As for reds, Pindar offered a full compliment of noted varietals, including Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. We all agreed that the non-vintage Pythagoras, a slightly spicy, earthy, red fruit-filled Bordeaux blend was the best of the lot, especially for the very acceptable price of $12.99 per bottle.

Pindar also offers a reserve list, with several high-end dry and sweet wines, available for $2.00 per sample. If you somehow find yourself on the island in the next couple months, make sure you drop the money on the 2002 Cuvee Rare Champagne. Though I don't know if I agree with the winery's claim that it is "an elegant rival to Cristal or Dom Perignon," the wine was fabulous, offering up typical sparkler flavors of yeast and soft red fruit, and a gorgeous orange-red hue. Oh, also, it is on sale for $14.99 (down from $27.99) till the vintage runs out, making it one of the best sparklers I've had under $20 from anywhere.

Amidst snippets of conversation with our very busy bartender, I learned that the place wasn't really going to "get crowded" until about 4:00 — I can't imagine what it looked like then! As it was, all the staff made a concerted effort to be friendly and helpful, and we ended up picking up four bottles. If you are planning a trip out that way, I highly suggest you make a visit. For those of you spending the summer on this part of the Mid-Atlantic, a good number of Pindar's wines are distributed through Suprex International, so ask your favorite retailer and see what they can get.

Pindar Vineyards
37645 Main Road (Route 25)
Peconic, NY 11958
(631) 734-6200
Food: Cheese, crackers, and other cold fair available for purchase.
Availability: Distributed in DC through Suprex International.

The desire to develop relationships with those who are growing our food has made the farmers market concept popular throughout the United States.  In the DC metro area, there are well over 30 farmers markets (in my neighborhood alone, there are three).  The markets give consumers the opportunity to learn about the farms and the farmers, providing a direct pipeline of information from the farm to the table.  This concept has been taken one step further with farm to table events like the one that was recently hosted by Vermilion Restaurant on the Moutoux Orchard in Loudon County, Virginia.  I had the

 Vermilion Restaurant, located in Old Town Alexandria is known for its conscientious efforts to use locally sourced produce, meats, dairy products and other ingredients.  Executive Chef Tony Chittum, a recent Rammy award winner for Rising Culinary Star, seeks out local farmers and producers to partner with, bringing farm fresh ingredients to the heart of Old Town. Out of this partnership came the natural progression of bringing diners to the farm itself for an evening of stellar food and the chance to break bread with those who grew it.

The Moutoux Orchard is a tapestry of beautiful trees bearing the fruit of their famous peaches.  The orchard has been owned by the Moutoux family for three generations and has expanded with its own community supported agriculture program.  Rob Moutoux, Jr. has also begun growing wheat, spelt, rye and barley, using chemical free farming practices.  The Moutoux family graciously opened up its orchard for the Summer Solstice Supper, allowing guests to meander around their orchards and fields. 

 The event started with a reception in the peach orchard, which included a selection of Horton Wines. After hearing the compliments being bandied around the reception, I decided to try their orchard peach champagne cocktail, a glass of their Sparkling Viognier NV with a splash of their peach wine.  I was pleasantly surprised by the clean and crisp flavor of the cocktail and the immediate essence of peach permeating it.

To offset the flow of wine, platters of appetizers were circulated throughout the white tent erected for the reception.  Fresh sausage was tossed with a snap pea slaw while the sweetness of beets was paired with an Alberene ash goat cheese.  The start of Summer squash season was heralded with grilled Summer squash coupled with a Virginia feta.  And fresh eggs were highlighted in a frittata of potatoes, leeks and Virginia ham.  All of the produce was harvested the day before – evident by the sweetness of the beets and the tangy earthiness of the squash.  A live blue grass band rounded out the trifecta of good wine, good food and good music, making for a lovely start to the warm Summer night.

A makeshift kitchen was set up close by, with Tony and his staff working feverishly over the open flames of the grill. The first course was set before us, a chicory salad with deviled eggs and a Summer squash and cornbread panzanella.  The eggs were gathered that very morning from the chicken coops, bringing new meaning to farm fresh eggs.  The yolk was smooth and creamy, requiring little seasonings to bring out its rich flavor.  

Knowing this, Tony and his staff used a minimal amount of ingredients to create the deviled egg, allowing its natural flavors to shine.  The salad course was paired with Horton’s Viognier 2008, a crisp wine that didn’t interfere with the taste of the food. The greens were tossed lightly with a vinaigrette of freshly picked herbs, providing an added depth to the salad. 

The second course was quickly placed in front of us, a duo of the region’s seafood accented with fresh vegetables paired with my favorite wine of the evening, Horton’s Petit Manseng 2007.  A Virginia wrapped local scallop was paired with a Hampton jumbo lump crab cake, served on large, family style platters to encourage guests to pass the plate and start a conversation.  The crab cake was served on a bed of oak leaf lettuce, tossed with the same fresh herb vinaigrette used on the chicory salad. Rounding off the second course was a crudo of spring root vegetables, including fresh radishes and beets.  The gorgeous, deep red of the beets permeated the rest of the crudo, giving the dish a bejeweled quality. 

 During the break between the second and third courses, I was able to get a closer look at the kitchen created in the middle of the farm land.  Tony, an easy going and affable guy, chatted freely with guests as he maneuvered the Piedmontese beef, rabbit and bison skirt steak around the huge, open flamed grills.  “The menu was driven by the harvest,” he said as he wiped his brow and turned over a massive piece of beef.  Tony’s drive to use local produce started with a simple pursuit of quality ingredients.  

Before the third course was presented, a Cabernet Franc 2006 appeared in my glass.  Although I’m not a fan of reds, I could appreciate the clear, full bodied taste of the Cabernet and believed it to be a fitting accompaniment to the New Frontier Farm Mixed Grill.  The grill included the aforementioned Piedmontese beef, a rabbit terrine and a bison skirt steak.  Seasoned only to bring out the meat’s natural flavors, the cuts were succulent and delicious.  The skirt steak was unbelievably velvety, almost melting in my mouth.  As with the second course, the mixed grill was served on heaping platters.  By this time in the dinner, everyone was relaxed and old friends, so the plates were passed around as if it was a family dinner.  

As dessert was served, everyone tucked into the Caromont Farm Chevre Cheesecake placed before them.  A strawberry black pepper preserves and Chantilly cream sauce accented the cheesecake, a mellower version of the heavier, traditional ricotta and cream cheese cheesecakes.  A sweet but flavorful Late Harvest Viognier was paired with the cheesecake – and a favorite of several of my dinner companions.  The knowledgeable servers explained how harvesting the grapes later allow for a sweeter, almost port like white wine.  Although heavier than all the other wines served throughout the meal, the Late Harvest Viognier was still a crowd pleaser. 

A final treat of Virginia peanut cookies was served along with iced espresso before Tony came out to greet all the diners.  A rousing round of applause greeted him, along with flashes of cameras and shouts of praise.  He graciously accepted the compliments and chatted with every section of the table before heading back to clean up.  As we all headed back up to the orchard to our cars, full and happy, the sun gave way to night.  Fireflies seemed to be lighting the path back to the orchard, reminding me that I was a long way from the city.  This was a unique event, allowing the consumer and the producer to come together over the very food that binds them.  A celebration of the season and the hard workers who bring it to us every week, the supper was a huge success.  And I walked away richer in the knowledge that I truly know where my food is coming from.

Heard around the DC Foodies blogoshere this week...word quickly spread this week about the temporary closure of The Breadline for numerous health code violations. Founded by Mark Furstenberg, he responded "I was disappointed when I heard the news". Young and Hungry Blog detailed the 19 violations and the speedy remediation which allowed the lauded lunch spot to reopen its doors.

"Value-oriented" and the Ritz Carlton brand are an unlikely pairing, unless you consider ENTYSE in the Tysons Corner location. The bar and lounge will offer small plates, along with 3 and 4 course menus, according to Gut Check. "Wine'd Down Wednesdays", a weekly happy hour, will feature wine pours and a seafood bar where a variety of crustaceans and mollusks will start at $1 a pop.

Speaking of Tyson's Corner, Chef Geoff's opened a Northern Virginia location, according to Sauce on the Side, who attended the opening and benefit celebration this week. The former Colvin Run Tavern space seats 200, and is open for lunch and dinner daily. Summer specials include Cuban Salmon with Mojito Vinaigrette, and can be ordered with a Grey Goose cocktail named after the chef's wife, Nora O'Donnell.

Bart Vandaele, chef and owner of Belga Cafe in Capital Hill, grew up in the food and restaurant business in Flanders Belgium, reported Eat Washington. Practically raised by the Maitre d' at his parent's cafe, he attended cooking school in Bruges at the tender age of 12. In the RAMW nominee's restaurant, you can choose from Belgium bistro classics, or fine dining fare. Just pick of side-of the restaurant, and the menu.

Finally, here are a few recommendation for your weekend cooking. Dish-trict made a lovely Shrimp Noodle Curry-a combination of her favorite dishes at Regent Thai in DC. The Houndstooth Gourmet made a refreshing Shell Pea with Mint Soup, using peas from the Dupont Market, and Two Yolks used local strawberries to make Strawberry Lemon Marmalade.

Can you cook or can you follow a recipe?

Now, there’s nothing wrong with using a recipe to guide you through a dish. But the difference between knowing how to cook and simply following a recipe is the difference between painting by numbers and free handing a landscape.

Besides, cooking is a creative endeavor and there’s only so much satisfaction you can get out of following other cooks’ recipes (except mine, please keep using them). So if you think you’re ready to close the cookbook and take your culinary skills to the next level, then this may be the class for you.

Susan Watterson, co-owner of the D.C. cooking school CulinAerie, is looking for a few students who are willing to spend two intense days learning how to cook...really cook -- poultry, meat, fish and shellfish, with accompanying sauces and sides. There will be no recipes, there will be no beginners.

There will be lunch.

It won’t be easy, but you won’t be alone. I’ve agreed to take the class to chronicle the experience for D.C. Foodies. I’m also eager to find out what I know (probably not much) and what I don’t know (probably a whole bunch).

So what do you say, are you ready to cook?

What: Beyond Basics cooking class
Where: CulinAerie, 1155 14th Street N.W., Washington, D.C. 20005, (202) 587-5674
When: July 25 and 26, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
How much: $325 per person
Why: Because you want to become a better cook.
(Disclosure: I assist at CulinAerie regularly.)