The popularity of soft-ripened cheeses like Brie and Camembert is undeniable - in addition to their prevalence on cheese plates at local restaurants, they figure into appetizers, entrees - even desserts. A trip to any grocery store turns up mass-produced versions from companies like Ile de France and President, as well as pre-packaged appetizers featuring brie wrapped in phyllo dough or topped with fruit and baked into a puff pastry.
Unfortunately, this level of attention results in quite a few offerings that are - in a word - tasteless. Many of the soft-ripened cheeses you can find in stores lack any real flavor beyond a basic creaminess. Their rinds are even worse - bitter, dry, and chewy, not at all appealing. The experience is enough to turn some people off to Bries altogether.
But writing off all soft-ripened cheeses as bland and unworthy of a place on your cheese plate would be a big mistake - and I have not tasted a better example of why than Sweet Grass Dairy's "Green Hill." A double-cream cheese made from the milk of Jersey cows, it has a deep yellow color that hints at its richness. When served at room temperature, Green Hill has a smooth texture that reminded me of creme brulee inside a thin, easily split rind. The taste is salty like butter, but the mouth feel is much softer and less greasy. This is a cheese that begs to be spread on a crusty baguette or scooped into with a slice of tart apple. Put aside any bad experiences you've had with the rinds of store-bought bries in the past - you shouldn't think twice about eating this one, which has just a hint of mild earthiness in its bloomy exterior.
A word to the health-conscious, though. As I mentioned before, Green Hill is a double-cream cow's-milk cheese, which means that it has a fat content greater than 60%. One bite will reveal this with its depth of flavor and silky richness, but it definitely bears mentioning.
If you are interested in serving Green Hill as part of a cheese plate, I would probably recommend offering a salty cheese (a blue would work well), a semi-hard cheese like a cheddar, and a nutty cheese like Parrano or Gouda to provide complementary textures and flavors. Apples, crusty bread, crackers and toasted nuts (especially walnuts) round out the plate nicely. For a more adventurous combination, try serving it alongside a chutney or something similarly spicy-sweet.
Sweet Grass Dairy's Green Hill is sold in pre-wrapped 8 oz. rounds. In our area, you can find it at Cheesetique for $15.50 and at Cowgirl Creamery for $11.50. According to their website, it is also available at local Whole Foods (though none had it in stock currently, nor could they tell me the price they charge). Finally, D.C. Foodies can find Green Hill on the cheese carts at CityZen and Old Ebbitt Grill, should you want to try before you buy.
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I second that thought on lousy, mass made brie. But I'm curious- have you had any decent cheeses from major grocery stores? I'd be interested in your picks...I've had some luck at Whole Foods (and am eagerly anticipating the arrival of the Yes! market on 14th Street.) What about Giant? Safeway?