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May 13, 2008
Sticky Rice to Open on H Street Next Week: Sushi (and Tater Tots) Buzz
Peanut butter and jelly. Macaroni and cheese. Dark chocolate and port. Anything and bacon.
There are some classic food combinations that just work. Sushi and tater tots have not previously been on that list in my mind, but I'm ready to be convinced. And now Sticky Rice is ready to do the convincing. As reported by THE source for all things on and around H Street, FrozenTropics, the Washington outpost of the popular Richmond institution is just about ready to open its door. Though they are waiting on a few final details, they fully anticipate being open for business next week.
I had the chance to talk with the guys who will be running the show up here in Washington, and they took the time to tell me a bit about what D.C. foodies can expect at this eclectic eatery. For those who are unfamiliar with Sticky Rice, the concept can best be described as "Asian-fusion," but that's only the tip of the iceberg. The menu at Sticky Rice includes a wide range of sashimi and sushi (nigiri and rolls) as well as several noodle-based dishes that can be ordered with beef, chicken, seafood or tofu. But they are not limited to the typical fusion offerings - a half-dozen sandwiches are available, as are appetizers including the hyped "bucket of tots" that is ready and waiting for late-night crowds coming from the Rock n' Roll Hotel, the Red & the Black and even the Atlas Theater.
Check out their website for a better idea of their menu, and while you're there be sure to notice just how much of it is Vegetarian and Vegan-friendly. Quite a few of their menu items are inherently suited to Vegetarian diets (and noted as such on the menu), and even more of them can be easily modified to accommodate.
Unlike quite a few Asian-focused restaurants, Sticky Rice intends to offer a wide selection of suitable beers and wines, in addition to a hand-selected range of sakes that reflects the various styles that are available. And because they recognize that many people aren't as familiar with sake as they are with other beverages, they plan to offer bi-monthly or monthly sake dinners that will feature different styles of sake paired with complementary dishes.
And just to whet your appetites a little bit further, here are some of the other things we can expect when Sticky Rice opens next week:
NO IMITATION CRABMEAT - Though this is almost an unheard of practice among sushi purveyors in Washington, Sticky Rice will use 100% genuine crab in all of its sushi. Although this results in a $5 California Roll, it definitely sets them apart from the competition.- Weekly specials will cover all courses - In other words, look for a sushi special, an appetizer special, an entree special, a sandwich special, etc. each week.
- A Late Night 'Fry' Menu - Although the full menu will not be available, Sticky Rice will remain open until 2 AM Sunday through Thursday and 3 AM Friday and Saturday. Once the main kitchen closes, a fry menu will feature tater tots, sticky balls, garden balls and other fried goodness.
- Experienced chefs from the start - Four of the chefs from the Richmond Sticky Rice will be coming up to Washington for two months to make sure that the new kitchen delivers the way the original does.
- Nightly events including "Sushi Heaven" on Mondays (half-priced sushi from 10:30 to 12:30 PM), Karaoke on Tuesday, Blingo (speed bingo) on Thursdays and trivia nights on Sundays.
Sticky Rice has seating capacity for roughly 100 people on two levels and an outdoor seating area on the second floor. They will open from 5 PM every night, though the kitchen hours will vary from night to night.
Sticky Rice - Opening next week
1224 H Street, NE
Map
(202) 397-ROLL (397-7655)
www.stickyricedc.com
Categories: Asian/Sushi, Capitol Hill, Munchies, Restaurant Openings
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May 09, 2008
Weekly Blog Round Up
Heard around the D.C. Foodies blogosphere this week...Just in case you need last minute dining options for Mother's Day this Sunday, you can check out A Life of Spice's list of D.C. Mother's Day Brunches. For those of you in the Old Dominion, you can see Northern Virginia Magazine's list, which food critic Warren Rojas linked to in his weekly Grill Warren food chat.
There will be a Food and Wine Festival at the National Harbor this May 17th & 18th. The festival benefits Share Our Strength. Guest speakers at the event will include Chef Michel Richard and local winner of Hell's Kitchen, season 3, Chef Rock.
In Tuesday's Washingtonian chat, Todd Kliman began with an informative Word of Mouth, reporting on the New Chinatown of North Rockville. Kliman highlighted Michael's Noodles and their "comforting chicken rice dish from the island of Hainan, off the coast of China". Accompanied by chili and ginger dipping sauces, this dish headlines the Chef's Suggestions.
Later in the chat, when asked what the next big trend will be, Kliman responded that he would like to see noodle bars, sushi bars which fly in fish from Japan, and a "real-deal deli".
While we are waiting for the real-deal to arrive in D.C., you can check out Tim Carman's article "Sandwich Bored". In it, Carman explores sandwiches, subs, gyros and a panini from Marchone's in Wheaton, where a Philadelphia Amoroso roll made Carman gush-over a sandwich. Hey, it happens.
Carman also launched a periodic feature, Fridge Festival, in his Young and Hungry column. In it, he invites a local chef to peer into the "skank hole" that is your average pantry, where food languishes unused, until it meets it's ultimate destination of the garbage pail or your dog's unsuspecting gullet. Bravely, Chef Todd Gray of Equinox accepted the inaugural challenge in Carman's own kitchen, and made the culinary equivalent of a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Perhaps I should say, a sausage out of a sow's ear.
Speaking of Chef Gray, recently Cork and Knife's Chip Griffin sat down with him to discuss his local and seasonal cooking philosophy, aging steak (did you know that steak gets a nutty nose scent as it ages?), and his détente with food bloggers.
We don't bite! Much.
Categories: Weekly Blog Round Up
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May 08, 2008
Virginia Wineries: Orange County, Part 1
Step aside California, Virginia has an Orange county, too; though, unlike its west coast counterpart, our OC is not full of beautiful people making each other miserable, but beautiful countryside, and enough wine to keep anyone happy. The area around Charlottesville is one of the fastest growing regions in Virginia winemaking, and to the northeast, in beautiful Orange county, is where a lot of it began. Before anyone had any confidence in the ability of Virginia to yield great wine, passionate winemakers staked their claims here, with several still thriving more than thirty years later. Here are my experiences at some of the wineries in and around Orange county.
Barboursville Vineyards
Even if you are not a wine lover, but say, an armchair historian, Barboursville has plenty to offer. Just down the hill from the grand tasting room and winery facilities are the Octagon Ruins, the remnants of a 19th Century estate designed by Thomas Jefferson himself. Afterwards, the food lover may retire to the award winning Palladio Restaurant, which offers a small but constantly rotating menu of Italian and southern cuisine of the highest caliber. For the organically minded, Palladio is a dream; all their meat is sourced from the highly regarded Polyface Farms, and many herbs and vegetables are harvested from the adjoining garden. I have only eaten there once, and I have to say the meal was excellent, but very leisurely — plan to be seated for several hours, and be sure to make reservations several weeks in advance.
As lovely as the ruins and restaurant may be, the main show at Barboursville is most certainly the wine. Barboursville offers a brilliant array of some 20 wines, including such Italian classics as Pinot Grigio, Barbera and Nebbiolo. Winemaker Luca Paschina, informed by his Piedmontese background, produces wines of a decidedly Italian character, high in acid and food friendly. For a modest $4 fee (which is waived with wine purchase) the bar offers a sampling of about 16 wines. The whites are universally appealing, and the dry Rose is particularly noteworthy for its balance of strawberry fruit and acid. The reds, too, are all top notch; the Barbera amazes me year after year with its varietally correct cherry and tomato flavors — it actually tastes Italian, a feat no California producer has replicated in my experience.
Undoubtedly the greatest treat of the tasting is the winery's flagship red, the Octagon, an homage to the Ruins and Jefferson's dream of producing world class French style wines in that very region of Virginia. This Bordeaux blend incorporates Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot in the 2004 vintage, the wine's seventh incarnation. On the nose and palate it is classic right-bank Bordeaux, with black currant, coffee, and earth leading to a firm and bitter tannic finish. Though young and a bit expensive at about $40 a bottle, this wine is easily one of the most age worthy in Virginia, and will certainly provide years of pleasure to any wine fan willing to take the chance.
Barboursville Vineyards
17655 Winery Road, P.O. Box 136, Barboursville, VA 22923
(540) 832-3824
Food: Palladio Restaurant — reservations available online, or call (540) 832-7848.
Wine Availability: Widely available in Virginia and DC.
Burnley Vineyards
Burnley will always hold a special place in my heart as a figurative port in the storm. Orange county is vineyard and horse farm country, and as such, is all but bereft of the usual amenities. So when my girlfriend Eliza and I found ourselves driving through the gorgeous countryside, suddenly beset by ravenous hunger and casting about in vain for a Sheetz or a Wawa, we pulled out our Virginia winery map (available for free at most wineries) and hoped for a miracle.
"Well, there's a place called Burnley about seven miles from here"
"Do they have food?"
"It says 'light fare'."
"We'll have to risk it!"
And so we found ourselves driving 50 mph on the highly rural Route 33, stomachs growling. We pulled off the main road, wound up a glorified cow path, and pulled up to the hill set raised ranch that is Burnley Vineyards' tasting room. We rushed inside, eyes shifting and desperate, and practically before we were even greeted set upon the complimentary oyster crackers like wolves.
"Would you like some cheese and a warm baguette?" The man behind the bar asked. "It shouldn't take but 10 minutes." We nodded, embarrassed but grateful.
Partially sated with starch and salt, we spent the time while our bread warmed to sample Burnley's wines. Where its neighbor Barboursville, which was founded in the same year, has gone upscale, Burnley has remained homely. I don't mean this in a negative way — Burnley is homely in the very best sense of the word, from the tiny wood burning stove in the corner, to the screen porch decked out in patio furniture, to the owner's Belgian Shepherd, Cooper (a certified Wine Dog), sniffing about the patrons.
The wines have a similar, honest quality — table wines of fair quality at fair prices. Amongst the usual Chardonnay (which was bad) and Cab Franc (which was good), Burnley offers an assortment of fruit-flavored and spiced wines which, though not likely to impress your more cosmopolitan friends, may make great gifts for that aunt or cousin who drinks Arbor Mist and whom you'd like to introduce to the finer things.
Once our baguette was warm we retired to the porch with it, a bottle of Primitivo (our favorite of the day), and a couple of very nice local cheeses, which we enjoyed thoroughly. Cooper, it must be said, was also a big fan of the cheese — no wonder his coat is so shiny!
Burnley Vineyards
4500 Winery Lane
Barboursville, Va 22923
(540) 832-2828
Food: Bread and cheese available for purchase.
Wine Availability: Limited availability within Virginia.
Stay tuned for part two next week. As always, if you have had notable experiences at any of these wineries or with their wares, please chime in. Oh, and if you have a favorite winery that you think I should visit, I'd love to hear from you!
Pictures courtesy of the respective vineyards' websites. Map courtesy of virginiawines.org.
Categories: Virginia Wineries, Wine
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May 07, 2008
Clare's Camembert from Clear Spring Creamery
With Mother's Day just around the corner, I found myself wondering how to honor the holiday in the course of a post about cheese. Try it for yourself - not so easy, is it? I thought about finding a recipe for something to make for Mom that features cheese prominently, but nothing really jumped out. I considered reviewing a restaurant where you could spoil Mom and enjoy a good cheese plate, but I wasn't in love with the idea. And I toyed with another post recommending cheese-related gifts, but I suspected that would have limited appeal in this case.
Fortunately, fate intervened in the form of a new vendor at the Dupont Circle Farmers' Market - Clear Spring Creamery. As seen at the Market on Sundays, Clear Spring is a true family business - the whole Seibert clan, including two children and assorted relatives, shows up to sell their milk, yogurt and cheese. 
And Clare Seibert, who owns and operates Clear Spring with her husband, Mark, handles all of the day-to-day operations of the Creamery in the time between getting her children off to school and greeting them when they come home. What better way to celebrate Mother's Day than to talk about the great things that Clare Seibert is making at Clear Spring - including her newest offering, Clare's Camembert?
The Seiberts' farm has been in the family for more than 100 years, but Mark and Clare have only been in the dairy business for about a year and a half. At that point, they transitioned from a farm that raised replacement heifers for sale to others to a true dairy. Their herd consists of Jerseys and Jersey-Holstein crossed heifers, and the milk is primarily from the Jerseys. Because the cows are pasture-fed on a strict rotational grazing system, they get plenty of fresh grasses in their diet and their milk has a high butterfat content - more than 5%. This makes for a rich, smooth milk that holds up well to pasteurization (they don't sell any unpasteurized milk, for those who might be looking for it).
All week long, Clare gets the children out the door and on their way to school, then she heads to their retrofitted creamery where she processes a portion of the milk from their herd five days a week. They use small-scale machinery manufactured locally, allowing them to work on a manageable volume of milk for their purposes. What isn't processed on site is sold to a co-op, and what they keep on site is made into pasteurized milk, chocolate milk, yogurt and cheese. The processing is frequently an all-day affair; for example, yogurt is started in the morning, allowed to cool throughout the day and then bottled in the evening.
In most cases, the process has some down-time built into it, which is when Clare manages to take care of household chores and necessary errands. But the processing takes up a significant portion of her day and her output is limited by the time it takes to make each type of product. This also impacts the variety of products Clear Spring Creamery can offer - Clare is considering adding one or more fresh cheeses to their product list and fans still ask about the mocha milk that has been available on a few occasions, but the time required for each forces her to think carefully about what products she will make in a given week.
The newest addition to the Clear Spring lineup is a soft-ripened cheese appropriately named Clare's Camembert. Before they started making cheese, Clare and Mark made it a point to visit as many of the cheesemakers in the nearby area as they could find, learning 
what they could about the process. That research has been put to good use - their first effort at cheese making is delicious and it has been selling out for the past two weeks.
Despite the name, Clare's Camembert is most reminiscent of a young double-cream brie - it lacks the earthy, bloomy flavor that I always associate with camembert, but it has a silken, salty taste that is absolutely wonderful. Even at room temperature, the cheese holds its texture fairly well, providing a spreadable but not liquefied cheese that cries out for crusty bread, apple slices, crackers - anything with a little bit of a crunch. The rind is thin and unobtrusive, without any of the chalkiness or bitterness that turns people off.
Because of their limited production capabilities, Clear Spring Creamery only produces a few rounds of Clare's Camembert at a time. They sell out quickly, so try to stop by before noon to increase your chances of getting one. The rounds were originally priced at $13 each, though they are now sold by weight for $13/pound. Most of the individually wrapped cheeses weigh in right around a pound each.
Clear Spring Creamery's milk, cheese and yogurt are rich and full-flavored thanks to Clare Seibert's commitment to small-scale production methods and the quality of their grass-fed cows' milk. Check them out next time you're at the Dupont Circle Farmers' Market, and wish Clare a Happy Mother's Day while you're there.
Categories: Cheese, Dupont Circle, Farmers Markets
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May 06, 2008
Italian Sausage, Roasted Spring Onion and Fresh Mozzarella Pizza
If I had name one item which most commonly starts a dish made in my kitchen, it would be the onion. From the genus Allium, onions can be divided into two broad groups; spring/summer fresh onions and fall/winter storage onions. The former are bountiful at the farmers markets right now. Typically more delicate, milder and sweeter than storage onions, spring onions can be readily used raw in salads, or roasted/grilled to intensify their sweetness.
Recently, I have been oven-roasting spring onions to eat plain, in pasta dishes and on pizza. After a trip to the newly opened Alexandria West End Farmers Market and the Dupont Farmers Market on Sunday, I had some terrific ingredients on hand to make this pizza. I even made things simple by stopping by The Italian Store in Arlington to pick up frozen dough. Whether your ingredients are from the farmers market, or your grocery store, this pizza is easy to make and great for entertaining with friends. It would be a fun family meal to put together with the kids too.
To make pizza at home in your oven, it is very helpful to have a pizza stone. This will allow the pizza crust to cook on a surface that will not change temperature quickly when the oven is opened.
Italian Sausage, Roasted Spring Onion and Fresh Mozzarella Pizza
makes 2-10 inch pies
Ingredients
- pizza dough-thawed*
- 1 ball fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced
- 3/4-1 lb. sweet or hot Italian bulk (uncased) sausage, cooked and drained of excess fat
- 6-8 spring onions, cleaned with green tips cut to fit roasting pan
- tomato or pizza sauce for pie topping
- olive oil
- kosher salt and pepper
- corn meal
Preheat oven and pizza stone (on lower 1/3 of oven) at 475 degrees for 45 min to 1 hour.
Place onions on a foil lined baking sheet. Drizzle olive oil over onions and season with salt and pepper. Toss onions with hands to evenly coat. Place sheet in oven for 8-10 minutes just prior to assembling pizza. You may need to cover the more delicate green ends with more foil to prevent them from burning after a few minutes.
Remove onions from oven and roughly chop.
Discard roots, but use both the white and green parts.
Cut pizza dough in half and form 2-10 inch pies. Place first pie on a pizza peel which has a thin layer of corn meal on it. This will allow the pizza to easily slide off of the peel and onto the pizza stone when placed in the oven. Evenly spread a thin layer of tomato sauce over the pie. Place one half of the sausage, onions and mozzarella evenly over the pizza.
Place the pie in the oven and bake for approximately 8 minutes, or until you see the amount of brownness/blister on the crust that you like.
Remove pie from oven and repeat pizza assembly and baking with the second pie.
*Call your favorite pizza place or market to see if they sell pizza dough. It's a great time saver.
Categories: Recipes
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May 02, 2008
Weekly Blog Round Up
Heard around the D.C. Foodies blogosphere this week... Pete's Apizza opened last Monday as scheduled, and the boards are buzzing. Comments ranged from " I like the fact that they sell the pizzas by the slice also" to "The spaghetti was very good, thicker chewy noodles with very flavorful meatballs" on Don Rockwell, to "I would have gone for a touch more char but the crisp/chewy thing was exactly right; it was an excellent crust" on eGullet. Chowhound members weighed in with "the crust seems dense, and too crunchy. Actually, almost pre-fab, but not quite. It's not New Haven pizza, but it's not bad. A little more work on the dough (that has to be the problem, rising at wrong temp or something), and it will be pretty good." and " the salads looked delicious and a nearby table got a pie, which didn't look crunchy. CH neighborhood boards are giving it a thumbs up."
D.C. Foodies wants to know what you think of the New Haven style pies (and slices). Go. Eat. Report.
fyve (yes, all small case letters), the restaurant and lounge in the Ritz Carlton Pentagon City opens today. Named, not surprisingly, with a wink and a nod to its 5-sided fortressed neighbor, the Pentagon, fyve is led by Chef Amy Brandwein, formerly of Galileo and Bebo Trattoria. Chef Brandwein will feature farm fresh Mediterranean cuisine, sparked by the flavors of Southern Italy and Northern Africa. Diners can look forward to appetizers such as Grilled Octopus, and entrees like fyve (yup, still no caps) Spiced Salmon.
DCist reported this week on local blogger and urban gardener aficionado, Ed Bruske (The Slow Cook). Bruske, a former reporter for the Washington Post and current contributor to Martha Stewart magazine, spoke at the D.C. Historical Society on "Spring Menus From an Urban Kitchen Garden". With very little space, you too can plan and plant. Oh...test your soil for lead first.
The Washingtonian's Best Bites Blog (subscribe here through D.C. Foodies) reports on European wines with good quality/price ratios. This week’s Winery of the Week is Leo Hillinger, from the Burgenland region of Austria. Two wines for under $20 are featured.
This week, Where in DC reports on the Blue Duck Tavern, House of Kabob, and Cashion's Eat Place. Check out the reviews here. This blogger keeps a blistering pace!
Finally, May means markets! Yes, seasonal farmers markets are finally opening. From Falls Church, to Olney, MD to Mount Pleasant, to Alexandria's West End. Ramps and morel mushrooms have been in the stalls for at least 3 weeks now. Asparagus is peaking, and you just may find strawberries waiting for you by this weekend.
Categories: Weekly Blog Round Up
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May 01, 2008
Screw That.
Consider the screw cap. As far as enclosures go, this little lid has twisted its way into common usage more than any other, so far to the extent that most people rarely go through a day without encountering one. From bottled water to shampoo to extra virgin olive oil, the little bugger is everywhere, and the singular "scrrccck" of capsule separation has become a subconscious signal as familiar as laughter or a sigh. The convenience cannot be denied: where once satisfaction required the use of a tool, instant gratification is available at the turn of a wrist. What better metaphor characterizes contemporary western culture?
I don't mean to sound glib; while there is much to speak against the postmodern culture of "NOW," the screw cap is indeed a wonder of 20th century engineering, and its convenience cannot be discounted. That said, many in the world of wine view the enclosure with ample skepticism. I am daily nonplussed by the number of customers who balk at the suggestion of a screw cap wine; even those staying at local hotels have been known to eschew the convenience for the sake of... Tradition? Prejudice? Who can say?
Critics have been debating Cork v. Stelvin (as the wine screw cap has been more palatably branded) for a number of years. On the one side you have the "If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It" camp, which clings firmly to the belief that natural cork works just fine, thank you, and that no other seal allows wine to age as intended. The Screwheads, on the other hand, suggest that there is no evidence to support their opponents' theories, and that, besides, most wine these days isn't meant to be aged in the first place. Each argument has its credence, but to my mind the convenience, preservation, and sanitation inherent in the Stelvin enclosure make it far superior in most contexts and undeserving of the pervasive stigma.
The first point, convenience, is a no brainer: where cork requires the use of a very specific and otherwise useless tool for its extraction, removing a screw cap requires naught but the least bit of physical effort. On top of this, the Stelvin is a boon to the physically handicapped and the arthritic, for whom using even the most ergonomic corkscrew may prove an impossible chore.
While some make the specious argument that wines under Stelvin will not age properly, none may deny that in the short term they are unmatched for preservation. Cork is a material of tremendous elasticity, and as it dries it is prone to shrinkage, which, as I am sure you can surmise, does not bode well for the wine it keeps in place. As such, wine bottles that are stored for any length of time are best kept on their sides, thus ensuring that the cork remains sufficiently moist. Screw cap wines, being kept under an airtight seal, require no such precautions and may be stored in any position for any reasonable length of time without ill effect. Also, even under the best of storage conditions, a wine of youthful character will suffer the slow death of oxidation through cork's microscopic pores; wines under Stelvin, while by no means immortal, will retain their youth a great deal longer.
Finally, the notion of sanitation should be obvious to anyone who has ever purchased a "corked" bottle of wine. For the uninitiated, I offer this scenario:
Imagine you are on a third date, and things are going really well. You and your special friend have just seen that new Judd Apatow movie (no, not that one; that was last week!), and feeling amorous and hungry, you proceed to your place for a little late night wine and cheese [raises eyebrows suggestively]. Upon arrival you bust out that sexy cutting board you picked up at Williams-Sonoma, decked out with an ample spread of brie, prosciutto, and the like. And now, the vino; a 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet, very nice... but so pricey! Amidst idle but suggestive conversation you pull and inspect the cork (no fool you!), and find it to be satisfactory. You pour your friend a healthy dollop (...maybe just a little bit more there...), and gaze longingly into his/her eyes, imagining years of love and lots of little babies, as he/she raises the glass to his/her lips... !!!
"Gah! Dammit, that's my new rug you just spit up on! What's wrong with you?! What, what do you mean? It tastes like what?... well, now that's just inappropriate! No, no, come back, I didn't mean it like that! Don't you dare slam that..." *SLAM!*
That could have been your soulmate, and now it's all over thanks to cork taint...
Okay, well, that may have been a tad melodramatic, but it is a fact that cork has ruined many a great bottle of wine. The real culprit is a compound known as TCA, a nasty little molecule most commonly born of fungi living on the cork prior to bottling. In the best of circumstances the contaminated wine will be limp, lifeless and dull; in the worst, it will taste like a copy of the Post left beneath the porch over the winter. Depending on who you ask, the estimates on TCA's pervasiveness range from as little as 1% to as much as 15% of all bottles of wine under cork; speaking from experience, I can assure you that the reality is much closer to the latter number. The screw cap's greatest gift is that it is exponentially less likely to harbor the rank substance. The feeling of having a much anticipated wine taste of mold and wet cardboard is one I've known far too often, and it is anything but pleasant; that anyone would risk it for reasons of propriety or superficial aesthetics is a mystery to me.
Suffice it to say I am not alone in my feelings about cork taint, and as such international sentiment towards the screw cap has become increasingly positive over the last decade. Though once only found on the likes of Thunderbird and Night Train, thanks to forward thinking winemakers around the world screw caps now cover wines of every type, price, and color. Here are a few of the most commonly available of my favorites:
New Harbor Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (New Zealand)
(About $13 — Widely available)
The Kiwis have latched onto the screw cap like no other people, and as a result over 90% of New Zealand's production is now bottled under Stelvin. The 2007 New Harbor Sauvignon Blanc is typically New Zealand in this, and every other respect. The nose is full of lychee and pine, giving way to a light and fruity palate punctuated by high acidity and a white pepper finish. This is wine is quintessential of the country's style and is well executed — you are unlikely to find as well produced and correct a wine for twice the price.
Domaine de Pouy Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne 2006 (France)
(About $9 — Very common locally)
An old standby in local importer Robert Kacher's vast portfolio, the producers of Domaine de Pouy have wisely decided to go Stelvin this year. This 60% Ugni Blanc, 40% Colombard from the southwest of France has an attractive straw gold color atypical of the blend. The nose is pleasantly light and citrusy, with a subtle floral note in the subtext. On the palate this wine is surprisingly lush and crisp, offering up unobtrusive herbs amongst the melon fruit. This wine has always been a fantastic summer sipper, and is all the better now thanks to its more logical enclosure.
Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant 2004 (USA)
(About $32 — Widely available)
The first Californian winery to really get behind the screw cap, Bonny Doon has been making a splash with its esoteric wines and innovative marketing for over 20 years. The Cigare Volant is this all-Stelvin winery's send up to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, the greatest wine of the Rhone Valley, France. A blend of some five grapes including Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, the wine shows a light purple in the glass, offering up a pretty nose of herbs and dark plum. The Cigare is all vibrant red berry and smoke on the palate, and all in all surprisingly balanced, if perhaps just a bit too tannic on the finish. This wine is a fantastic candidate for the drinker who wants to test out the ageability of screw cap wines in his own cellar.
Categories: Wine
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