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Thu, Jul 24 2008 at 02:01 PM

Roses - Part 2

Posted by Rob Rutledge, Jul 24, 2008

Having just co-hosted a large rose event with TasteDC, I was recently fortunate enough to revisit a good number of this year's crop of pink wines. Here are some of the highlights (and lowlights).

Beauvignac Beavignac Syrah Vin de Pays D'Oc Rose 2007 (About $9)
Though France is best known for its high-end wines, Vin de Pays (cheaper wines, literally "Country Wines") represent many of the best values in the world. This 100% Syrah from the Languedoc region in southern France shows a light pink, slightly orange color in the glass. On the nose, it has a nice blend of red fruit and spice. On the palate is where this wine differs from most, being relatively low in acid — this makes the finish rather short, but leaves the texture rather round and mellow (like Chardonnay). A great ice-cold quaffer, and at such a modest price, you can enjoy it all summer.

Grandecass Chateau Grande Cassagne Rose 2007 (About $10)
A perennial favorite from local importer Robert Kacher, this particular incarnation is not very good, even for $10. The nose is redolent of fresh rubber and alcohol, and on the palate the wine is washed out, chemically accented, and lame. Usually I am not one to say this, but the Grande Cassagne '07 is an objectively bad wine. Stick with Bobby's Petite Cassagne, which I reviewed in my first rose post.

Melival Melipal Malbec Rose 2007 (About $13)
This rich Malbec rose from Argentina shows a rich, dark burgundy-pink in the glass, and gives off scents of cinnamon, savory herbs and red raspberries. More raspberries on the palate, along with a slightly bitter quality, give way to a surprisingly dry, full, almost tannic finish. This wine's weight, fruit, and dry finish make is a wonderful pair with your spicier Indian food, such as Tandoori Lamb.

Pinieros Bodega Pirineos Mesache Rosado 2007 (About $15)
This Cabernet/Merlot blend from northeast Spain is unusual, in that about 10% of the wine is fermented in American oak. Though the nose shows a typical amalgam of strawberries and flowers, even that small bit of oak gives this wine a buttery quality on the palate, an unusual trait for a rose. Despite the atypical texture, the finish is clean and sharp due to the wine's poignant acidity. Given its unique profile, this wine would make a great pair with foods most often served with Chardonnay, including scallops, pork, heavier fish, and even cream sauce.

Incidentally, to reiterate a point I made in my last rose diatribe, keep an eye out for the bad stuff — lots of restaurants around town are still trying to hawk turned wine to turn a profit. Just recently, I noticed that two restaurants I really enjoy have been selling such dead juice. Vapiano in Arlington is selling a pretty bad 2005 Cusumano Rose for some $7 per glass, and Kaz Sushi Bistro has the gall to offer a $28 rose from 2002 on its wine list (I did not order this, but asked the waitress, and was assured that the vintage was correct)! Now, these are two of my favorite eateries (for very, very different reasons), which goes to show that even respectable establishments may take the low road as regards the pink stuff. Buyer beware!

Categories: Wine
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SB

Do you know the actually difference between a White Zinfandel and a Rose? A staff member at Veritas winery explained it to me, but I forgot. I do recall him saying that White Zin was actually an accident and sold so wine makers kept repeating the mistake. I really don't like White Zin, and as a result have been turned off by Roses as well.

Rob Rutledge

While White Zin is technically still a rose, the purpose behind it is so different from that of most other rose that drawing a comparison between the two is problematic. The most obvious difference is that the former is usually sweet, the latter usually dry. Modern White Zin is also likely to contain a portion of sweet white grapes like Muscat, and is not meant to represent any real varietal flavor from any of the grapes-- producers are going for smooth, sweet, and simple. Traditional roses usually exemplify the qualities of the grapes used, just as a red wine will, but on a lighter scale.

White Zin wasn't a mistake so much as a marketing ploy-- back in the 70's, there was a lot of Zinfandel planted in California, which no one was really sure what to do with (this was before the days when it was known for making the high class stuff). People were crazy for white wine at the time, so winemakers decided to start vinifying this problem grape like a white, just for the hell of it. Bob Trinchero of Sutter Home was the first to put any real volume behind the effort, and it was quite a success. Supposedly, the first real sweet White Zin was a result of stuck fermentation (yeast death) in the fermentation of some first press juice, but I'm not 100% sure on the veracity of that-- as far as I'd always heard, it was totally on purpose.

In the glass, "real rose" is a totally different animal, SB, and if you enjoy other dry wines, you should give it another shot. Get the right one with the right food, and it will totally change your opinion. I hope.

SB

Thanks for the insight! Brings back memories of me and my college roomate getting toasted off of Sutter home White Zin. I've never been able to drink it since! My husband has gotten into the Roses recently, so I'll sip on his.

Jason

A rose is a great summer wine. A while ago, I gave them a try and I haven't looked back. In the summer (and sometimes in the winter too if I'm in the mood) roses are on my rotation frequently. I particularly like the Eye of the Toad Rose from Toad Hollow Vineyards which is available for $10 to $14 a bottle depending on what state you buy it in.

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