The M Street drag in lower Georgetown has long been a bastion of the hip and cool in DC — yet somehow, certain establishments manage to fly just under the radar. Pizzeria Paradiso, a longtime institution is well known, and deservedly so, for the quality of its wood-fired pies. However, relatively few people know of the other great stuff that lurks down below.

The DC craft beer scene is a relatively new development compared to those in other major metropolitan areas. Yes, I know, we have the Brickskeller, which has held the world's record for most beers in one location for several years. But the 'Skeller, by its very nature (i.e., huge), is lumbering and static. Maintaining a list such as theirs, some 1000+ beers strong, necessitates that the status quo reigns; sure, there is bound to be the occasional change in the lineup, but when placed among its hundreds and hundreds of brethren, who is bound to notice the newbie?

To the Brickskeller's behemoth, Birreria Paradiso offers an elegant counterpoint. Small and dynamic, it represents the very quintessence of a proper latter day spirits program, so lacking in the District. Housed in the cozy downstairs area of the Georgetown location, the Birreria is a welcoming space, featuring a 10 seater bar, a fireplace lounge, and table seating for about 20.

Well, I guess calling the beer program "small" only works in comparison to the Guinness record holder.  In fact, the Birreria's selection is quite impressive, being some 80+ strong in the bottle department. Selections run the gamut from the $5.50 Austrian Pilsner to several $50 Belgian Bieres Brut (the closest thing any beer lover is going to find to the glories of vintage Champagne). The bottle menu is extremely well laid out, oriented by category with general descriptions, with each brew identified with its own pithy couple of lines. Given the specificity, you are very unlikely to end up with something unexpected. The selection features a wide array of both domestic and imported novelties; if you are a fan of rare bottle-conditioned ales, be aware that Paradiso is near the top of the allocation list, and you will find things there you may never see in any other bar or retail store. In addition they regularly stock the full compliment of Belgian Trappist beers (at least, those that are available) and local favorites from Dogfish Head and Victory.

While the bottle list is well appointed, it is in the draft department where I think the Birreria really shows its stuff. Their draught selections are constantly rotated, featuring some of the best and hardest-to-find beers in the country. Do not come here if you are looking for Miller Lite or Coors— if your idea of a complicated wheat beer is Blue Moon, you may be a bit put out. What you should expect is a full complement of beers you've never heard of, and assume that nearly all of their 16 taps will be different than the last time you'd visited. Paradiso is also one of the few venues in town where you can experience real cask ale: served unpasturized and unfiltered, unadulterated by CO2 or nitrogen, at room temperature, this stuff is the closest you will find to those served in the British pubs of yesteryear. If you’d like to know what you are getting into before you go, rest assured that the list on the website is kept very up to date despite the disclaimer.

Sampling the Paradiso draft lineup is a great way for both the expert and the neophyte to learn a thing or two. Bartenders are keen to let you taste new offerings, and Manager/Buyer Greg Jasgur, a one-man beer encyclopedia, is usually running in and out of the place. Tuesday and Wednesday the Birreria features half-priced drafts and pizza specials from 5 to 7 pm. This happy hour is easily one of the best in town, and as such the space becomes packed with in-the-know regulars. I heartily suggest you go, but expect to stand and have your personal space a bit encroached. Bartenders tend to be very competent, but given the crowds and the Birreria's commitment to serving their beers in the proper glassware, you may have to wait a bit for your next drink. Be patient, and don't rush: many of the beers on draft are 10% abv or higher, so resist the urge to get as many in as possible, especially if you are driving. If you can find a spare bit of flat space, have a pizza, too. Beer has the same food pairing potential as any beverage, wine included, and with the breadth of choices available you are sure to find a match for your favorite toppings.

Birreria Paradiso
3282 M Street NW, downstairs
Washington, DC
202.337.1245
eatyourpizza.com
Map
Dress Code: Casual
Parking: Garage nearby. Street parking is hard to find.
Closest Metro: Foggy Bottom or Rosslyn

It's rare that I find myself writing about pizza and Bethesda, or even all of Montgomery County. It's almost as if pizza is a four-letter word out there, but I think Mia's Pizzas in Bethesda is a refreshing addition of the DC metro pizza scene.

For those of you that love 2 Amy's or Pizzeria Paradiso, you'll feel right at home at Mia's. The menu incorporates the good things from both and adds a slightly suburban touch for the kids. I used my son's presence as an excuse to order a "little mac 'n cheese", which I really wanted for myself. Upon first tasting, it came off as bland, which actually made it perfect for my 2 year old. Then I added a hefty portion of crushed red pepper and salt and it was perfect. This is by far the cheesiest mac 'n cheese I've eaten in a while. Kraft don't have nuthin' on this.

Be warned that the crostini appetizer, which is often on the special menu, is not like your typical crostini. Don't expect little crispy toasts with spoonfuls of toppings on them because it's closer to a salad than anything else. The homemade focaccia is the basis of the crostini, which I don't find to be particularly good bread and can be bought on its own for $2.50 with balsamic vinegar, olive oil and hot pepper for dipping.

If you're actually in the mood for a salad, there are many well presented options to choose from at Mia's Pizzas. The mozzarella, tomato, and basil salad is nothing original, but is very well executed. Slices of ripe yellow and red Roma tomatoes are the highlight of this dish with the addition of sweet heirloom grape tomatoes, peppery arugula, balsamic vinegar, and of course, fresh mozzarella. On a recent trip to the grocery store I tried to reproduce this salad.  $5 for the mozzarella cheese, $2.50 for the arugula, $3 for the basil, $5 for the tomatoes, $10 for some balsamic vinegar, and $10 for some halfway decent extra virgin olive oil. $35 later, I was wishing I drove to Mia's and spent the $6.50 instead (although I'd made enough for 6 or so people to eat, but there's only Amy, Noah and I, and Noah's not much into mozzarella cheese...or tomatoes...or just about anything lately).

One of these days I'll go into how cursed I am because my son is one of the pickiest eaters on the planet.

On to the main event...the pizza. I'm surprised that I was able to even stomach the idea of eating pizza after my recent trip to New York. For me, pizza is all about the crust. You could use the freshest mozzarella cheese, great sauce from San Marzano tomatoes, but if the crust tastes like white toast, you're worthless in my opinion.

Mia's Pizzas has a nice chewy crust which at times can be a little thicker than I like, but it has a good yeasty flavor. The cooks have a tendency to leave a thick ring of uncovered crust around the edge which can be disappointing. The toppings and sauce are very good quality and tasty. My favorite toppings are the salami, pepperoni, and hot peppers, but I have yet to try them all.

I'm probably a much tougher judge of pizza after eating some of the best pizza in the world on my NYC trip, but Mia's pizza could use a longer cook time as could most pizza that comes out of a wood oven, so if you're like me and you like your pizza with a nice ring of char, then ask for it well done. Usually I just order the Margherita with a couple toppings, if any at all, because it really doesn't need any. Some of the pre-configured pizzas are good too, like the Il Forno or Jorge's Inferno, so give them a try too.

If you're not in the mood for pizza you can order a meatball sub instead, but ask for an extra couple spoonfuls of sauce to keep it from being dry. The meatballs themselves are good enough to eat on their own which you can have if you order the appetizer portion (and you'll notice just about everyone does in fact order that).

At Mia's in Bethesda, I was brought instantly back 25 years to my childhood in Connecticut, picking fresh strawberries with my mom and brother and then returning home to slice them and to put them on top of the warm, fluffy biscuits my mom had made when I ate the strawberry shortcake. It was on the specials menu at the time, and I've had good luck with all of the special desserts. My son goes gaga for the homemade cupcakes, which you'll notice (mostly) only the kids are eating. They're very dense and heavy and not fluffy like you'd expect. Nevertheless, we'll always be ordering one.

Mia's Pizzas
4926 Cordell Avenue
Bethesda, MD 20814
Map
(301) 718-6427
www.miaspizzas.com

Details:
Dress Code: Casual
Parking: Street. Bethesda is good for parking Sun. through Thurs. but Friday and Saturday (when the valets come out) your only option is the garages. Either way, make sure you bring lots of quarters for the meters.
Smoking: Not Allowed.
Closest Metro: Bethesda
Reservations: Not Taken.
Baby-Child friendly rating: 3 diapers. Plenty of high chairs, bathrooms with plenty of room, crayons and a not so quiet dining room make this an ideal dining location with children.
Amy's Bathroom Rating: Clean and dependable.

I just got final word that RedRocks, the new wood-fired pizza restaurant in Columbia Heights, is opening this evening for business. Even more interesting news is that the ex-long-time pizza guy from 2 Amys, Edan MacQuaid, will be the executive chef at RedRocks which gives me high hopes for this new pizza spot.

Per the press release, "The 95 seat, 1,800 square foot restaurant will offer both traditional and gourmet pizzas straight from the 800 degree brick oven, as well as café fare including fresh panini with housemade bread, salads and starters, wines by the bottle and the glass, Chimay Triple and Allagash White on tap and 30 beers and microbrews by the bottle."

You gotta love Chimay on tap...

Hours will be:

Monday – Thursday, 5 p.m. to 12 a.m.
Friday, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.
Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.
Sunday, 11 a.m. to 12 a.m.

http://www.redrocksdc.com/

Back in September, when I first found out that Roberto Donna was opening Bebo Trattoria, I was really excited. The idea of a reasonably-priced Italian restaurant in the area run by Roberto gave me goosebumps! I'd always enjoyed dining at Osteria del Galileo, the cheaper, value-centric face of Galileo, and Bebo Trattoria just sounded like the same thing on a much larger scale.

I didn't go to Bebo Trattoria for a while after it opened, but people let me know, practically the day after they opened, about the bad service they were experiencing there. My response was simply, "Well, what do you expect? Give them another month or so to settle into the new space and get used to the new menu."

Following my own advice, I waited until the end of November, the Friday evening after Thanksgiving, and the restaurant wasn't very busy at all. Food and service on that first trip actually were both very good, but it was hardly representative of the typical experience at Bebo -- the restaurant was mostly empty.

I'd never been to the humongous, modern space previously occupied by Oyamel. A large bar overlooks a kitchen open for everyone to see -- and you occasionally see Roberto Donna and Executive Chef Amy Brandwein, slaving away over the presentation of that veal scallopine or whole roasted Branzino. Next to the bar, there's a very large room that can be curtained off for large parties or events, and then you step down into the spacious dining room.

Bebo's prices, quality of ingredients, and preparation set it apart from other Italian restaurants in the DC area. Entree portions aren't huge, but the prices make up for it. A polpette (meatball) entree comes with four (or maybe it was five) veal, beef and pork meatballs in a bed of chunky tomato sauce with garlic bread toasts for $12, or veal scallopine, lightly breaded, pan fried and topped with mozzarella cheese and a salty slice of anchovy.

However, fried foods have left me unimpressed. The fried mozzarella comes out greasy and heavy rather than the light and fluffy cheese puff that I'm used to. The same goes for the fried rabbit entree.

But who doesn't love pasta?! Bebo serves up simple pasta dishes with the occasional surprise like a deconstructed lasagna with bechamel and meat ragu (a subtler, less knock-you-on-your-fat-ass version than the one you'll find at Dino) or a hearty paccheri (think of a smooth-surfaced rigatoni) pasta with pork rib ragu.

I always hesitate to order risotto. How a restaurant can put the care and love and constant stirring into a risotto dish with all the craziness that goes on in a kitchen is beyond me and I always find that risotto is either underdone or overdone. At Bebo though, I've had the most amazing risotto. Each delicate morsel of rice had the right consistency and texture. Of course, that was the first time I ordered it. The second time, it was underdone, but the chance of eating perfection will keep me re-ordering it regardless. It helps to know that if you order the risotto, it will be a 25 minute wait. The first time I ordered it as an appetizer and we waited, for what seemed forever, for our appetizers to come.  The second time I ordered it though, our server informed us that the risotto takes 25 minutes, which explained a lot.

And like others have said, the service can be as inconsistent as the risotto and seems to depend completely on the server. A night where we had flawless service, the table next to mine waited 30 minutes before their server came to greet them and had to go talk to the hostess before their waiter came over. When ordering the whole fish, the server brings it to the table and de-bones the fish. When I first ordered the fish, my server butchered the fish and left half of the meat still hanging off the bones. But, the other night, I saw another server fillet the fish perfectly, getting every little piece of that fish off the bones.

Desserts on the other hand, are anything BUT inconsistent as each and every dessert I've ordered is completely delicious. My favorites are a creamy and sweet panna cotta with a sinfully sweet  strawberry sauce and the tiramisu, which is anything but typical, with brandy and espresso drenched lady fingers in a pool of sweet, fluffy marscarpone....and the firm chocolate pudding with crumbled merange...and the list goes on.

Wines are available by the glass and bottle and there are a good deal of bottles that are reasonably priced unlike Galileo. Roberto Donna's commitment to good cuisine continues with the recent reopening of "The Grill" which has been a longstanding DC foodie staple since its opening. Roberto has also resumed his cooking classes (which I've written about here before) at Bebo. Pizza will soon be offered too as soon as the wood-burning oven is installed.

My suspicion is that as time goes on and the servers get more experienced, the service issues will disappear. But regardless, Bebo is a great restaurant overall that I'll continue to return to as often as I can.

Bebo Trattoria
2250-B Crystal Drive
Arlington, VA 22202
Map
(703) 412-5076
Web Site

Details:
Dress Code: Casual
Parking: There is a parking garage under the shopping center where Bebo Trattoria is located and parking is free after 4 PM. 
Closest Metro: National Airport Crystal City
Reservations: Taken and recommended.
Baby-Child friendly rating: 3 Diapers. The atmosphere isn't too quiet but not too loud either. The waitstaff seems very amicable to children and it seems pretty common for people to bring children to the restaurant. Highchairs and boosters are available.

I'm not really sure how to classify Matchbox. They have a menu similar to Chef Geoff's or Cafe Deluxe, but maybe a little fancier -- and then they have pizza. There's ALWAYS a crowd and people tend to make a big deal about the place. I went there at 2:30 on a Saturday and I still waited 20 minutes for a table -- it must be the location.   The MCI Center is the ideal area for a restaurant like Matchbox, where you can get a wide variety of dishes that satisfy everyone in your crowd. (Although Matchbox isn't great for seating a large crowd.)

The layout of the restaurant takes full advantage of its location in a thin row house. Downstairs, you have the bar and pizza oven, which take up most of the first floor. The second and third floor are where the tables are. Overall, the restaurant can only hold a mere 59 people according to the Fire Marshal.

Our hostess was very helpful. We were there with Noah, and she was very interested in both him and Amy. How old is he? How are you feeling? We get that just about every place we take him too, and who can blame them? He's a beautiful baby. The hostess was able to get us a table for four, which was nice because we could put Noah's carrier in a chair while we ate.

We had some of the infamous mini burgers. They come in batches of three, six, and nine for $7, $11, and $14 respectively. They're worth every penny in my opinion. The brioche buns are coated in about a quarter stick of butter each. The burgers are made with what seemed to be fresh Angus beef and topped with pickles and cheese (if you like). I could do without the mountain of onions strings, which seem like filler and are more of a distraction than anything else. I think the next time I go to Matchbox, I'll get two orders of the nine mini burgers.

To soak up some of the grease, we had a salad as well. The Bistro Salad was mixed greens with pear and toasted bread topped with goat cheese. We only ordered a half portion for $7, but it was plenty after the burgers. I rather liked the method of having a full piece of toast (rather than little croutons), buttered and toasted, and then topped with the goat cheese. It allowed you to tear off pieces of the "crouton" and mix it with the salad. The goat cheese was tangy like it should be and went well with the sweet vinaigrette.

For the big finale, we had the Matchbox Meat pizza. It came topped with tiny pepperoni, bacon and a spicy Italian sausage. While the toppings were fresh and flavorful, I wasn't all too crazy about the crust, which was weak and bland. Pizza, for me at least, is all about the crust. If the crust doesn't rise at the edges, there's something wrong with it. Also, the cheese and sauce went all the way to the edge of the crust. Eh.

I also have to note that the bar at Matchbox serves Magic Hat #9 on tap which gives it huge points. I know it's not the only place that has it on tap in the area, but still it's a great beer.

I think I'll be back to Matchbox the next time I'm over by the MCI Center. The mini burgers are worth the trip alone and I'd like to try some of their entrees rather than the pizza.

Matchbox
713 H St NW
Washington, D.C. 20001
(202) 289-4441

Hours:
Open Monday through Friday, 11:00 AM - Close
Saturday 12:00 PM - Close (no clue what "Close" means. This is what the web site says.)
Closed Sunday

Dress Code: Casual
Smoking: Allowed at the bar
Closest Metro: Metro Center
Parking: There's not very good street parking in the area and there's no valet. Take the Metro.
Reservations: Not taken.
Baby-Friendly Rating: 3 out of 4 diapers. The stairs make for a difficult trek with the baby carrier and stroller, but the hostess made up for this with how accommodating she was.

You'll notice the new baby-friendly rating which is my diaper scale. No, this doesn't count the number of times we have to change Noah's diaper at the restaurant. It's just my ranking of how accommodating I think a place is for people with a baby.

I finally stopped by Radius Pizza for a pie the other day. All I can say is that it was about time. I've been hearing about this place all over, between DCist, DR.com and eGullet. All of the feedback that people have been giving has been very positive, which is why I'm so surprised that I was as disappointed with the pizza as I was...

First, a plain cheese pizza is $17. That's too much for a plain pizza. That said, A large pizza is HUGE, measuring at about two and a half feet in diameter.

Second, the crust was just missing the right flavor and texture. It might have been that I had to wait till I drove home to eat it, but the crust had a very chewy texture to it. I ended up leaving most of the crust on my plate. The good thing about the crust was that it was the right thickness and when you picked up the slice, there was that ideal "floppyness" that you're supposed to get when you pick up a slice of NY-style pizza.

I did think that the cheese and sauce were pretty good and the pizza was topped with the right amounts of both, but it really didn't make up for the crust. I probably need to go and actually eat the pizza at the restaurant to see if it tastes any different.

Another thing I noticed is that the staff is very friendly and courtious. While I was waiting for my pizza, I sat at the bar for a short time and had a beer. The bartender was friendly as were the waitresses that passed by.

I want to thank everyone that emailed me about The Italian Store in Arlington, VA. I finally stopped by last Sunday and I have to say it's probably some of the best NY-style pizza in the area. Well actually, I wouldn't quite classify it as NY style -- It's more like a cross between New Haven style and NY style, with a crust the thickness of New Haven style and the cheese and sauce quantities of NY style.

The dough that the crust was made from was quite flavorful. As I tasted it, my thoughts quickly reverted back to my childhood, eating slices of pizza at the Naugatuck Valley Mall in Waterbury, CT. Sauce was scant, and IMHO, there could have been a little more, but I don't think the lack of sauce detracted that much from the flavor.

All Amy and I had were a couple plain cheese slices each, so I don't know how fresh their toppings are. But seriously, when you're eating this type of pizza, you're not looking for gourmet toppings like morel mushrooms or local spring onions. You just want some sauce, some greasy cheese and maybe one topping or two -- pepperoni, sausage...anchovies. Keep it simple stupid.

If you're looking for a place to sit down, you don't want to go to The Italian Store. The only places to sit are five or six tables outside and you'll be lucky to find a place to sit during prime time.  There's a Starbucks next store as well so you can squat in on of their tables if your brave.

Other than pizza, The Italian Store is an Italian grocer and deli. You can order subs and deli meats or shop in the aisles for some gourmet imported Italian pasta or some pre-made pasta dishes for your lunches this week. Amy had the spaghetti and meatballs, stuffed shells and cheese and spaghetti bolognese for lunch this week and found all of them to be quite good.

So far, I'd say The Italian Store is some of the best NY-Style I've tasted in the area, although I still haven't made it over to Radius Pizza in Mt. Pleasant, so I will reserve any final judgements until I've been over there. Also, the last few pizzas I've had from Vace in Cleveland Park have been overcooked so I've dropped them down a notch.

The Italian Store
3123 Lee Hwy
Arlington, VA 22201
(703) 528-6266
Map